Leaf peeping, apple picking and getting cozy in flannel jackets are all hallmarks of fall — unless you live in Florida. Here, the only bursts of red, orange and yellow from October through winter are from out-of-state license plates as snowbirds head south. To experience a true change of seasons, you’ll need to cross state lines — but even in the South, there are still slices of pumpkin-spice paradise to be found.
Like Tampa Bay, parts of North Carolina were ravaged by Hurricane Helene, and several counties have spent the past year rebuilding their small towns and tourism economies. While Florida’s sugar-sand beaches offer a summer escape for those who don’t live by the coast, North Carolina — particularly Haywood County — is a haven for cooler temperatures and traditional autumn activities. To remind travelers of its timeless appeal, Visit Haywood invited Tampa Magazine to experience firsthand how this mountain hideaway continues to enchant visitors and capture the very best of fall.
Getting to Haywood County
Flying into Asheville Regional Airport is a breeze — it’s small, easy to navigate and the perfect gateway to western North Carolina. While Asheville itself has plenty to explore — from the iconic Biltmore Estate to its artsy, walkable downtown — you’ll need to rent a car or arrange a shuttle to reach Haywood County.
Lodging
A 45-minute drive west leads to Clyde, North Carolina — a central location for Haywood County’s five mountain towns: Maggie Valley, Waynesville, Lake Junaluska, Canton and Clyde. During this press trip, I stayed at Pigeon River Mountain Retreat, a secluded 500-acre estate. The property features six spacious mountain lodges — each with fully equipped kitchens, scenic views and cozy vibes scattered across the wooded landscape, connected by nature trails and rugged driveways best explored by UTV.
A favorite among celebrities — though owner Mike Hunter wouldn’t divulge who — it’s easy to see why. Beyond its towering trees and views of the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains, the estate offers complete privacy behind a gated entrance and the moat-like Pigeon River — and even a helipad for guests who prefer to skip the Asheville airport altogether.
Of course, this kind of seclusion comes at a price. Unless you’re hosting a wedding or corporate retreat, the minimum rental of three cabins makes it a splurge-worthy stay. For those seeking a more budget-friendly mountain escape, Elk & Embers Mountain Hideaway and Boyd Mountain Log Cabins in Waynesville offer charming individual cabins at a more reasonable price. Travelers craving a luxury experience with all the amenities at their doorstep will enjoy The Swag and its sister property, Cataloochee Ranch, which offer horseback riding, spa services, a fully equipped craft studio and gourmet all-inclusive on-site dining.
Dining
Speaking of dining, Haywood County is full of culinary gems. Part of what makes each destination unforgettable is that restaurants — along with other local businesses — take pride in featuring locally sourced ingredients. The Switchback, located at Cataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley (and pictured on the October cover of Southern Living), exemplifies this approach. Chef Jeb Aldrich crafts a seasonal menu showcasing the best of land and sea, from rigatoni with winter squash to the popular sunburst trout with broccoli and pepita crumble. Don’t miss the bread service, which features a rotating selection of warm housemade rolls and breads, or the dessert menu curated by Executive Pastry Chef Hannah Patel, with decadent bites like chai pear tart and brûléed butterscotch pudding.
Rocky Face Tavern, located at Springdale Resort, highlights Appalachian flavors and offers a cozy fireplace — perfect after a rainy hike on nearby mountain trails. A recipient of Golf Inc.’s 2023 Golden Fork Award, it also serves as a relaxing retreat for guests finishing a round on the adjacent 18-hole golf course.
On Canton’s Main Street, Southern Porch delivers indulgence in every bite. Create a meal out of sides like crisp fried green tomatoes, ooey-gooey broccoli casserole, beer-braised collards and creamy grits. Pair your meal with $5 margaritas on Tuesdays — the tropical White Hot Summer blends pink cranberry juice, cream of coconut and coconut flakes.
For a taste of the highlands, The Scotsman Public House occupies a historic 1927 Masonic lodge and has been featured on America’s Best Restaurants. Its menu spans traditional Scottish staples — bangers and mash, haggis, shepherd’s pie — to hearty pub fare like mac and beer cheese, Bavarian pretzels and poutine.
Comfort food lovers will appreciate Singletree Heritage Kitchen in Waynesville, where warming dishes like crispy mushroom strudel or green lentil and basmati cakes with roasted carrots and early fall squashes make each meal feel like a hug on a plate.
For breakfast, Beach Mountain Diner offers lighter fare such as the healthy morning with egg whites and veggies — perfect fuel before a day on the trails — or heartier options like fried chicken and waffles. Joey’s Pancake House is a local hotspot for pancakes, best enjoyed with real maple syrup. For a quick pick-me-up or a whimsical twist on coffee, the newly opened Blue Ghost Outpost serves inventive drinks like the Laura Palmer, made with butterfly pea flower tea, mint, vanilla, lemonade and edible glitter.
As a tea lover myself, I highly recommend spending an afternoon at the new Crown & Thistle Tea Room, founded by sisters Rebecca Bradley and Melissa Roop. In addition to traditional tea service, Crown & Thistle hosts seasonal events — like a “Bridgerton”-themed tea or a Witches’ High Tea — and updates its menu to reflect the time of year. October’s spread featured butternut sage crostini, maple cinnamon scones, snickerdoodle apple pie bites, pumpkin whoopie pies and chocolate chai pudding.
If you can’t decide among the more than 40 teas — including limited-edition blends like October’s Psychocandy and Witch’s Brew — order a tea flight. To keep the purple sparkle of the day going, I chose the Magical Butterfly Pea Flower Herbal Tea, infused with apple pieces, rose hips, hibiscus, blackberry leaves, raspberries, blackberries and, of course, the color-changing butterfly pea flowers.
Activities
With crisp mountain air, cool breezes and landscapes free of fire ants and love bugs, fall in North Carolina is a great time to connect with nature. Even novice hikers will enjoy stops along the Blue Ridge Parkway, such as the picturesque Sunburst Falls, or on a clear day, a visit to Devil’s Courthouse and Graveyard Fields. For a more challenging hike, The Swag offers access to a quiet section of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and a climb to Hemphill Bald.
Cataloochee Valley is a popular spot for elk viewing, especially during the fall rut season. When hiking any of these trails, keep an eye out for black bears. I was lucky enough to spot one along the road into Cataloochee Valley, and while I would have loved to cuddle one of these beautiful creatures, I was reminded that, despite their gentle appearance, they are wild animals and should always be viewed from a safe distance.
Battling pumpkins for the title of quintessential fall fruit, apples, in my opinion, are the clear winner. While pumpkin may make a fine pie, I’d much rather sip apple cider than pumpkin juice, and therefore, the apple has my heart. Unfortunately for this New England native, Florida is void of apple orchards — but Haywood County is not. Locally made apple soap, face scrub, candles, cider and more than 75 varieties of apples can be found at KT’s Orchard & Apiary in Canton — yes, that means there’s fresh honey, too. Grab a bag and pick through apples you’ve likely never heard of, such as Winter Banana, Red Jonathan, Sundance and Blushing Gold.
Overnight guests of The Swag can explore the other edible wonders nature has to offer during a guided wild cocktail class. In this outdoor mixology session, guests learn how to make a simple syrup from birch and sassafras — ingredients used in root beer — and how to collect elderberries, blackberries and the lemony wood sorrel to craft a light, fruit-forward muddled bourbon blackberry smash. The recipe changes with the season, depending on what nature provides, and on occasion, the experience shifts into a wild cooking class instead.
For a spine-tingling glimpse into Waynesville’s past, join a seasonal haunted tour with 7th-generation Haywood County native Ginger Aumen and uncover the eerie tales woven into the city’s local businesses and Appalachian folklore, including that of the Boojum. The story varies slightly depending on who you ask, but legend has it that the Boojum was a towering, hairy cave dweller who loved stealing gems from unsuspecting locals and hiding them in moonshine jars. Those bold enough to try to snatch his treasures would succumb to the liquor’s potent strength, falling into a deep, enchanted sleep before the theft could succeed. One fateful day, the Boojum fell for a woman named Annie. Though he frequently left in search of more jewels and gems, he would shout for her upon his return — and the phrase “Hootin’ Annie” was born.
There’s plenty more to see, eat and experience in Haywood County. I’ve already planned stops for my return visit, including the Waynesville Soda Jerks Gift Shop, which carries the namesake’s craft sodas in unique flavors like lavender-lemon, strawberry-rhubarb and apple-rosemary, and a stop at Cold Mountain Toffee. Other must-visit sites include Winchester Creek Farm, home to alpacas and other mini farm animals, and the Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum, which showcases the largest collection of American-made motorcycles in the world. And of course, I will certainly return to Barber’s Orchard for apple cider donuts, frozen cider and some of the best produce I’ve ever seen.
Despite the impact of the 2024 hurricane season, Haywood County remains an unforgettable destination any time of year — but in the fall, it feels especially magical. From craft food and seasonal drinks to haunted tours and cozy mountain inns, autumn here is a full sensory experience — a place where every winding road and hidden orchard invites you to slow down, explore and savor the season.
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